Humanity, our Planet, and Culture

Categories: Ode to my Heritage

Barcelona: Dynamic City of Architecture, Art and Gastronomy

Barcelona, Spain, is a beautiful and vibrant city, and a hub for new technologies.  It is the first city in the world to gain Biosphere certification (2011), recognition of its commitment to be a sustainable tourist destination.  There are plenty of eco-friendly transport options in the city, and a focus on sustainability in accommodation and restaurants, which make it easy for travelers to find ‘slow food’ restaurants and environmentally and socially responsible options in hotels.

Barcelona is home to the renowned Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926). He was part of the ‘Modernista’ Movement in the 19th and 20th centuries, but his work transcended the mainstream Modernisme, and his organic style was influenced by natural forms. He integrated ceramics, wrought iron and carpentry into his architecture, and was influenced by religious mysticism, mythology, nature, history and philosophy.

The unconventional and monumental La Sagrada Familia church and basilica designed by Gaudi, epitomizes his belief that nature and the divine are linked.  Only a quarter of the project was completed before he died. The part of the basilica which has been completed, is a combination of Gaudi’s personal representation of Gothic architecture, Catalan Modernism and Art Nouveau. The project to finish the construction has been underway for decades, though many experts wonder if the project has anything to do with Gaudi’s plan or style.  The towers, or spires, on the Sagrada Familia, were inspired by the holy mountain Montserrat (a great place for hiking) just outside Barcelona.  The project to finish the construction has reached its final phase, and the completion in 2026 will coincide with the 100th anniversary of the death of Gaudi.  Once completed, it will be the tallest religious building in Europe at 564 feet. The Sagrada Familia represents the Modernism of Catalonia. Having influenced many forms and techniques that are relevant to modern day construction, part of the Sagrada Familia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the church is symbolic of Barcelona.

A Gaudi building that should not be missed is the incredibly beautiful ‘Casa Mila’, or, as it is popularly called, ‘La Pedrera.’  La Pedrera is one of my favorite sights in Barcelona and represented a spiritual symbol for Gaudi, a devout Catholic and devotee of the Virgin Mary.  Gaudi was known as ‘God’s Architect’ because he incorporated religious images in many of his works.  The building and rooftop terrace of ‘La Pedrera’ were inspired by a mountain and medieval fortresses. ‘Casa Batllo,’ right across the street from the Pedrera, and on the beautiful Passeig de Gracia, is another of Gaudi’s masterpieces. ‘Park Guell,’ designed by Gaudi, (Unesco World Heritage Site) is a public park which was inspired by the Greek sanctuary Temple of Apollo at Delphi.  Many elements in the park symbolize Gaudi’s political and religious concepts, and the park offers a great view of the city.

The Tibidabo mountain is a beautiful area to visit in Barcelona, and one that is not frequently mentioned as a ‘must see’ in tour guides of the city.  The Tibidabo overlooks the entire city, and was my favorite area for a peaceful hike.  The Mirablau restaurant, halfway up the mountain, offers a great view of the entire city to the sea, and is also great for drinks and dancing in the club of the same venue. If you prefer not to walk, a tram can take you up to the restaurant from Plaza Kennedy, and a funicular train from the plaza by the Mirablau restaurant, will take you to the top of the mountain.  The Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Roman and Gothic architecture) is located on the summit, and it is one of the most iconic sights of Barcelona. One of the oldest amusement parks in the world is here too, the Tibidabo Amusement Park, and was featured in Woody Allen’s ‘Vicky Cristina Barcelona.’

Although Pablo Picasso was born in Malaga, he had long standing connections with Barcelona, and his best friend and personal secretary, Jaume Sabartes, was Catalan.  Sabartes, Picasso and his wife, donated hundreds of works to the museum, as did Salvador Dali. The Museu Pablo Picasso is located in the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona, and houses one of the most extensive collections of the artist.  The permanent collection of paintings, drawings, engravings and ceramics, occupy five palaces, which have their own history, and are Gothic Catalan style architecture.

The Gothic Quarter is the heart of Barcelona, full of history and always lively by day or night.  It used to be the Roman village, and there are many squares (plazas) to enjoy. The Plaza Reial has lively bars and restaurants, and the emblematic and delicious restaurant ‘Los Caracoles’ is nearby. There are a lot of attractions to see in the quarter:  The La Seu Cathedral, which took two centuries to build, is a spectacular representation of Gothic architecture. The Roman Temple, Temple D’August, which was witness to the origins of Barcelona 2,000 years ago, and built to be a place of worship to the Emperor Augustus, is not to be missed; as well as the historic market La Boqueria, just off the famous ‘Las Ramblas,’ where you can eat some of the best tapas in Barcelona.  For one of the best paellas in town, a good view, and where the locals go, ‘Merendero de la Mari,’ in the Port of Barcelona.

There is plenty of great shopping in Barcelona, from Passeig de Gracia, near the Gaudi masterpieces, to Port d’Angel in the Gothic district. The avenues of the L’Eixample neighborhood, which is a showcase of Modernist architecture, are all lined with boutiques.  It is easy to get around on foot, and public transportation is great.

The Costa Brava, aka the “wild coast,” northeast of Barcelona and to the border with France, is a beautiful coastal destination, full of beautiful beaches, sheltered bays (calas) and resorts. Visit the kitsch house where Salvador Dali lived with his wife Gala: Casa Museo Salvador Dali, located  in ‘Cadaques,’ a beautiful little fishing village in the northern part of the coast. Painters Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro also spent time in Cadaques.  One of my favorite villages to visit on the Costa Brava is Sant Marti d’Empuries, which was established by Greeks in the 4th Century B.C.  The main square, La Placa Major, is the centre of the village, and is presided by the church of Sant Martí, where everyone meets on the bar terraces to enjoy the delicious offerings of local food and wine.

In Figueres, birthplace of Salvador Dali, the Teatro Museu Dali showcases Dali’s personal surreal style: the metallic copula and the huge eggs on the roof; and the castle that Dali gave to Gala:Casa Museu Castell Gala Púbol.

The countryside, or Emporda, is full of rustic restaurants and resorts, and the area promotes quality and sustainable tourism.  The first class cuisine is a reflection of its territory with restaurants offering quality seafood from the nearby coast, and fresh vegetables and fruits from local orchards and the mountainside. Local author, Josep Pla said, “Cuisine is landscape in a pot.”

One of the best experimental and gastronomic chefs in the world, Ferran Adria, is from Catalonia. His first restaurant, El Bulli, was located in the coastal town of Roses. There are several other internationally recognized restaurants in the Costa Brava which have been awarded Michelin stars.

The Emporda is a great place for Rural Tourism, and accomodations are full of Romanesque and Gothic charm. The lower Emporda is where the Romans and Greeks left their mark. Peratallada and Pals are just a couple of the beautiful villages in the area.  Walking and biking are all possible in the Emporda, and some of the best fish restaurants are found in Palamos. And the Emporda holds a special place for me, as my beloved Labrador Retriever, Jadey, was born there.

Anywhere you eat in Catalonia, the food and wine are excellent because its location on the Mediterranean coast on one side, and the mountains on the interior, provide a varied option of ingredients.  The sparkling Catalan wine ‘Cava,’ produced in the Penedes wine region south of Barcelona, comes with no pretensions attached to it, so locals drink it as an everyday wine.  The process of making Cava is similar to that of champagne, but as it is made in different terrain as French champagne, it is more acidic and a little lighter, so it is easier to drink. The famous Freixenet and Cordoniu Cava producers offer organic wine tasting tours, farm to table lunches, and tours of their wineries. The Sumarroca family-owned winery produces estate grown organic wines and outstanding cavas, and also produce wine in the Emporda region.

It is almost impossible to be bored in Barcelona.  The city offers a huge assortment of cultural and leisure activities. The innovative city planning makes it possible to discover the city on foot or by bicycle;, or by the extensive public transportation network, which makes every part of the city accessible.

Furthermore, ranked as one of the world’s smartest and most sustainable cities, makes it a good example of a 21st century city, that is truly invested in improving the quality of life and experiences for its residents and visitors.

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